The air at the top of the Gunlom escarpment is different—thinner, warmer, and carrying the faint, dry scent of spinifex and sun-baked sandstone. Looking out from the natural infinity pool, the Arnhem Land plains stretch toward the horizon in a shimmering haze of ochre and olive green. It’s a view that hasn't changed in a million years, and looking at it, you really get a sense of why this place is dual-listed on the World Heritage register for both its nature and its ancient culture.
For many touring Australia in 2026, a trip to Kakadu National Park is the crown jewel of the Top End. However, with the recent news that Jim Jim and Twin Falls will remain closed for the entire 2026 dry season for major road and infrastructure upgrades, some travellers are feeling a bit short-changed. But here’s a tip from the locals: the "real" Kakadu—the rugged, escarpment-country waterholes and deep-red 4WD tracks—is very much open for business. If you’ve got a high-clearance rig and a sense of curiosity, this is the year to skip the tourist hubs and find the hidden corners of the park.
Why Now?
July 2026 is peak adventure season in the Northern Territory. The humidity of the "Build-up" is a distant memory, the creek crossings have settled into manageable depths, and the birdlife at the billabongs is at its absolute most spectacular as the water recedes. Most importantly, as of July 1st, Gunlom Falls has officially reopened after significant repairs to the access road. While the crowds might be thinner due to the Jim Jim closure, the quality of the experience at the southern waterholes has never been better.
Getting There
Kakadu is massive—nearly 20,000 square kilometres of national park. Most people start the run from Darwin, which is a comfortable three-hour (250km) drive along the Arnhem Highway. While the main arteries are smooth bitumen, the spots on this list are where your 4WD really earns its keep. The track into Maguk or the corrugated run down to Gunlom will test your suspension and your tyre pressures, but the payoff is a fraction of the crowds you’ll find at the roadside stops. Always check the Kakadu Access Report before you head off, as conditions can change with a single late-season shower.
5 Must-Visit 4WD Spots for 2026
1. Maguk (Barramundi Gorge)
If you only do one 4WD track in the south of the park, make it Maguk. The drive in is a proper sandy, corrugated adventure that keeps the buses and the soft-roaders away. Once you park up, a short walk through a monsoon forest leads you to a massive plunge pool fed by a gentle waterfall. The water is crystal clear and surrounded by towering paperbarks and pandanus. It’s the quintessential Top End swimming hole, and in July, the water temperature is just right for a long soak after a dusty morning of driving.
2. Gunlom Falls (Upper Pools)
Gunlom is legendary for a reason. While the main plunge pool at the bottom is impressive, the real prize is the steep climb to the top of the escarpment. The series of interconnected rock pools at the summit create a natural infinity pool effect, looking out over the south of the park. It reopened in late 2025 after a long closure, and for the 2026 Dry Season, it’s the place to be for a golden hour sunset. Just make sure you’ve got your head torch for the walk back down.
3. Yurmikmik (Motor Car Falls)
For those who like a bit of a hike with their 4WDing, the Yurmikmik area is a standout. The Motor Car Falls track is a bit more rugged and less frequented than the northern sites. The waterfall itself is a hidden gem tucked into a shaded gorge, meaning you can often find a corner of the pool all to yourself. It’s a great spot for birdwatching—keep an eye out for the colourful Rainbow Pitta in the undergrowth or the soaring Wedge-tailed Eagles above the escarpment.
4. Yellow Water Billabong (Ngurrungurrudjba)
While not a technical 4WD track, getting to the best launch spots at first light often requires navigating some sandy backroads around the Cooinda area. A sunrise cruise on Yellow Water is non-negotiable. In July, the receding floodwaters concentrate the birdlife and crocodiles in massive numbers. Seeing a five-metre saltwater croc slide silently off a bank while a sea eagle hunts overhead is a sensory experience you won't forget. It’s a reminder that out here, we are just visitors in a landscape ruled by very ancient inhabitants.
5. Ubirr Rock Art and Nadab Lookout
The drive out to Ubirr takes you through the stunning East Alligator region. After exploring the ancient rock art galleries—some of the finest in the world—make the climb to the Nadab Lookout for sunset. You’ll be looking out over the floodplains toward Arnhem Land as the sky turns a fiery violet. It’s a spiritual place, and the sheer scale of the landscape from this vantage point is enough to move even the most hardened weekend warrior.
Where to Stay
For the full Kakadu experience, you’ve got to camp. The Gunlom Campground offers managed sites with basic facilities right at the base of the falls, while Maguk has a more basic, bush-style campground for those who want to be first in the water. If you’re looking for a bit more comfort, Cooinda Lodge near Yellow Water has great powered sites and a pool to wash off the red dirt at the end of the day. Remember to book your sites online via the Parks Australia website to avoid disappointment during the peak July window.
Practical Tips
- Permits: You need a Kakadu National Park pass. Buy it online before you arrive to save time at the gate and support the traditional owners of the land.
- Crocodile Safety: This is "Croc Country." Never swim anywhere that isn't explicitly marked as open by park rangers. "Be Crocwise" isn't just a slogan; it's a survival rule.
- Fuel and Water: Fuel up at Jabiru or Cooinda. Carry at least 20L of spare water if you’re heading into the more remote campgrounds like Yurmikmik or Maguk.
- Connectivity: Mobile coverage is non-existent once you leave the main townships. If you’re planning on working from the road or need to stay in touch with home, a satellite solution is a must.
Staying Connected at the Edge
Kakadu is a massive place, and "black spots" are the rule rather than the exception. Whether you're a tradie needing to check site plans for a job back in Darwin or a nomad wanting to share that Gunlom sunset with the world, a Starlink Mini setup is the ultimate tool for the Top End. We’ve seen plenty of rigs this season using a Starlink Mini Magnetic Mount on the roof or a Starlink Mini BullBar/Railing Mount for quick deployment at camp. Being able to pull high-speed data out of thin air while parked under a paperbark tree is a proper game-changer for outback touring, ensuring you’re never truly isolated when it matters most.
Closing Nudge
Kakadu is a place that rewards those who go the extra mile. Don’t let the Jim Jim closure put you off—there is more than enough magic in the rest of the park to fill a lifetime of trips. The southern waterholes are currently in their prime, and the tracks are calling. Once you’ve ticked off the Territory, be sure to check out our guides for the Kimberley and Eyre Peninsula to keep the adventure going.
Have you tackled the Kakadu escarpment this year? Let us know your favourite 4WD track or hidden waterhole in the comments below!
