Winter Solitude on the Murray: A 4WD and Camping Guide to the Riverland
The silence of the red gums
There is a specific kind of stillness that only exists on the Murray River at first light in August. The white mist rolls thick and heavy off the dark water, partially hiding the gnarled, ancient trunks of River Red Gums that have stood watch over these banks for centuries. You wake to the sound of a whistling kite overhead and the crackle of last night’s embers, and for a few hours, the rest of the world simply doesn't exist.
The Riverland region of South Australia—stretching from the border down to Blanchtown—is often overlooked for the coast in summer. But when winter hits, the river becomes a haven for those who want to dodge the crowds, light a fire, and explore the network of backwaters and lagoons that the summer houseboat fleets rarely see.
Why winter is the window
While most people head north to the heat in August, the Riverland offers a crisp, clear alternative. The days are usually sunny and mild, perfect for hiking the creek lines or throwing a line in for a callop (golden perch). The nights are properly cold, which makes that riverside campfire much more than a novelty—it’s the centrepiece of the trip.
Crucially, winter is the prime season for birdwatching. As the backwaters like Loch Luna and Lake Bonney settle, the lagoons fill with pelicans, swans, and egrets. Without the noise of jet skis and high-speed wakeboats, the river regains its deep outback quiet, and the campsites that are booked months in advance in January are frequently yours for the picking.
Getting there
Renmark is the main hub of the Riverland, sitting about 250 kilometres or a comfortable three-hour drive east of Adelaide on the Sturt Highway. The road is sealed and suitable for any vehicle all the way to town, but if you want to reach the best riverside camps, you’ll need a 4WD.
Many of the tracks into the Murray River National Park and the various floodplain reserves are clay-based. In dry winter conditions, they are easy going, but a single millimetre of rain can turn them into a slippery mess that challenges even a well-sorted rig. Always check the local weather and track closures before committing to a remote river bend.
Highlights of the Riverland
Loch Luna and Moorook. This is the river at its most intricate. A network of narrow creeks and wide lagoons that are perfect for kayaking or exploring in a small tinny. The 4WD tracks through the Moorook section of the Murray River National Park lead to some incredible, secluded spots right on the water’s edge.
The Woolshed Brewery. Perched on the banks at Wilkadene Station north of Renmark, this is arguably the best-situated brewery in Australia. Housed in a century-old shearing shed, it’s the perfect place to grab a paddle of local ales and watch the river slide past. It’s accessible by road or by boat, and the views from the deck in the low winter sun are world-class.
Customs House and the Border. Follow the dirt tracks north-east from Renmark to the site of the old Customs House, where the river crosses from Victoria into South Australia. The country up here feels more like the "real" outback—redder dirt, bigger gums, and more abundant wildlife. The fishing around the border cliffs is legendary.
Headlings Flat. For a classic clifftop view, head to the lookouts at Headlings Flat. You get a vast, sweeping panorama of the Murray looping through the floodplain, framed by orange limestone cliffs. It is spectacular at sunset when the rocks glow like embers.
Innamincka Track detour. While not technically "the river," the start of the tracks heading north into the deeper outback from the Riverland offer a taste of the transition from fertile river valley to the dry red centre. Even a short drive north of Paringa changes the landscape completely.
Where to stay and camp
Murray River National Park (Katarapko and Lyrup sections). These are the gold standard for riverside camping. Sites are generally large, well-spaced, and require online booking through the National Parks SA website. Lyrup is great for easy access, while Katarapko offers more remote, "tucked away" sites among the floodplains.
Customs House Station. A private property at the border with great unpowered sites and access to some of the river’s best fishing holes. It’s a bit further out, which keeps the crowds away even on weekends.
Renmark Riverfront Caravan Park. If you want a bit of luxury—powered sites, hot showers, and a camp kitchen—this is one of the best parks in the state. It sits right on the bend in the centre of town, within walking distance of cafes and shops.
Practical tips
- Firewood: In national parks and most reserves, collecting firewood is strictly prohibited. You must bring your own seasoned wood. Buy it in Renmark or Paringa to avoid introducing pests from other regions.
- Water: The river water is not suitable for drinking. Carry at least 5-10 litres per person per day, especially if you are heading to the more remote sections like Customs House.
- Permits: Parks SA entry and camping fees must be paid online. There is often no mobile signal at the campground entrance, so book your spot before you leave Renmark.
- Mozzies: Even in winter, the river mozzies can be fierce at dusk. Pack the coils and the repellent—you’ll thank yourself when the sun goes down.
- Waste: The Riverland is a sensitive floodplain. If you are camping off-grid, you must carry out everything you carry in. Don't be the person who leaves a rubbish bag hanging from a red gum.
Staying connected on the river
The deeper you go into the backwaters of the Murray, the faster the bars on your phone disappear. While a weekend of silence is great, many of us need to keep the wheels of business turning or check the weather radar for incoming winter fronts. A Starlink Mini set up on a magnetic mount on the roof of the ute or perched on the end of a jetty turns a remote river bend into a high-speed office. It gives you the freedom to stay an extra few days without worrying about missing that important email or losing touch with the family back home.
Where to next
The Murray River is the lifeblood of South Australia, and winter is the best time to see its quiet, raw side. Once you’ve explored the Riverland, why not head further south to the Coorong or west to the Flinders Ranges? You can find our full guides to all of South Australia’s best 4WD and camping destinations right here on the blog.
Safe travels, and we'll see you on the river.
